The traffic lights have been ripped out in the centre of Tirana. Bus shelters are burnt and riot police throng cafes as chronic anti-government protests take their toll on the Albanian capital.

Early mornings are peaceful but then tension grips certain neighbourhoods as they gear up for fresh protests, demanding the resignation of Socialist Prime Minister Edi Rama.

The leaderless movement started peacefully in May, with rallies against a luxury hotel project in a nature reserve, linked to US President Donald Trump's family.

It morphed in mid-October into a wave of protests against perceived corruption, shortcomings in the health system and the lack of prospects for young people in the country of 2.3 million.

The rallies have since deteriorated into pitched battles between the security forces and protesters.

Rama has ruled out stepping down and his government introduced stiff fines for violent demonstrators on Wednesday.

The newly adopted legislative measures imposed fines of up to 500,000 leks (5,500 euros, $6,130) for "anyone who chooses to remain in a crowd" that is carrying out acts of violence or looting in a public space, or "concealing their identity".

The protesters range from young people to professionals and pensioners. On some days there are hundreds demonstrating, on others a few thousand.

Closing shutters
"We pull down the shutter around 2:00 pm," said Drita Lika, 40, whose clothing store lies along the route along which demonstrators march.

"The situation can change quickly," she said, with paving stones and Molotov cocktails hurled and tear gas and water cannon fired in response.

Lika has just replaced her shop window, which was smashed during earlier unrest.

Since then, she has been hoping that the little note of support for the movement she taped up will deter troublemakers.

"We're with you!" reads the message -- similar to others taped all over the neighbourhood, a few hundred metres from the main square.

Calls to protest are issued without coordination by different groups. Some set the start of the demonstration at 10:00 am, others at 2:00 pm, sowing confusion among both participants and residents.

"We are small shopkeepers, why target us?" said Nirda Baka, in her fifties, at her lingerie shop.

"We live the same life, we have the same social problems, we pay taxes."

Tourists undeterred
Wires hang down where traffic lights were torn out as protesters attacked surveillance cameras mounted on them.

Pedestrians have to cross at intersections with big hand gestures to get through the traffic.

The facade of the justice ministry has been blown out. Water cannons rest on sidewalks, some stripped of their paving stones. Looted phone shops have not been repaired.

Yet tourists have not deserted this European destination, which has become particularly popular in recent years for its Mediterranean climate and still-affordable prices.

One tourist told AFP she came from Paraguay to celebrate her 25th birthday in Albania "because it's cheap and it sounded nice."

"There are protests here? I had no idea!" she said, when told the reason for the wreckage.

Other visitors wandered in groups toward the Ottoman Toptani Castle, photographing security forces resting on the steps of the interior ministry.

Some apparently failed to notice insulting stickers plastered on the walls, written in red and black, the national colours, bearing the likeness of Edi Rama.

According to initial official estimates published Friday, the cost of the damage due to the demonstrations exceeds two million euros.

Calm nights
A total of 127 businesses have been affected and more than 350 people have been injured, according to authorities.

Every day, around midnight, calm returns to Tirana as the marchers disperse and the familiar chirping of crickets can be heard.

Traffic returns to the streets. Teenagers dressed all in black take off their gas masks and go home to sleep. Until the next day, Tirana can breathe a little -- at least for a few hours.
Source: BSS